Located just minutes from downtown Ithaca, Robert H. Treman State Park is often overlooked compared to it's sister park Watkins Glen. But this park has it's own unique identity and the amazing lucifer falls!
We started our day by hiking the 897 stairs of Watkins Glen before arriving here around 11am. For some reason my research failed me and indicated this park was much smaller then it turned out to be. Expect a hike of over 4 miles if you do the entire loop and a significant number of stairs. We parked by the lower gorge trail, near the swimming pool. [more on that later]
This is the recommended trail, take the gorge trail up and then take the rim trail back. This involves a ton of stairs at certain points, especially once you reach the big falls, however the other side has a SUPER steep 240 stair section I would not want to climb up, so best to take it down. Alternatively park at the top lot and do half the loop and drive to the pool later.
I was a bit perplexed by the beginning of the hike. We were up quite far from the gorge and could make out some small falls but there was no way to view them. There is a section called "steep stairs" on the map, this is 200 stairs, have fun! The first section eventually gave way to valley full of tall grass and flowers where we could finally get down to the water.
You will be able to view most of this central area from the other shore when you come back and each side provides different perspectives but the way up is definitely superior. When you reach the bridge you know you've gotten to the good part. Don't cross it and continue on the path towards lucifer falls. This is where the real stairs begin!
Lucifer falls is one of the tallest in Ithaca and also the entire state of New York. The fact that it appears suddenly when turning around a corner is a wonderful surprise. There are several angles to view it from and you'll have another chance on the way back. This is the highlight of the entire hike and if you park in the upper lot then you can take a shorter hike just to see this.\
Turn the next corner behind Lucifer falls and you'll come to a square pool with another set of falls. I believe this doesn't have it's own name but its a brilliant fall on its own. The gorge here provides some shade and we decided to have a snack while soaking up the ambiance. This would be an amazing swimming hole if it was allowed.
This next section is so similar to Watkins Glen that I can see why the comparisons are often made. There is a gorge with more small falls, tons of stairs, stone bridges and benches... and absolutely no guard rail in spots. This is the part where I recommend holding on to your small children tightly.
Crowds on the first part of the hike were minimal to non existent on both sections of the lower park. This upper section is absolutely packed with people just like the other parks in the area. As always, come early for the best experience. That said, we didn't find it to be nearly as busy as Watkins Glen or Even Buttermilk Falls. However, the pool was closed and I suspect that when it's open the lower part of the park would also be full of people the same as this section, if not more.
Before you head back, the upper lot of the park has an awesome stone bridge that we stopped to take photos of. There appeared to be some bathrooms and other amenities, along with the original wooden park trail map from god knows when.
Find the rim trail, it's time to go.... up again!
Just when you thought you'd reached the top of the park you ascend again. There are two areas to view Lucifer falls from the top of the ridge across the gorge. The first looks like a nice viewing platform but the views stink. The second spot gives an incredible view which I have photographed here. Following this is a massively steep decline of stairs. There is a hidden plaque dedicated to the family who donated the park located in an alcove on the stairs. See if you can find it on your way down.
The rest of the hike down is incredibly uneventful. When you finally make it you will be in the cabin section of the park. Make you way out to the road, across the stream and back through the parking lot. There is a huge water fall located at the swimming pool you must visit.
This pool area is so classic, from the stone buildings of the bathrooms and concession stand to the bright red diving boards and little falls coming off the pool... I love it. The stunning view of the waterfall that feeds the pool is why this is the iconic photo of the park instead of lucifer falls. There was no life guard on duty at any of the parks while we were there, likely due to the ongoing pandemic. I would have loved to swim here but every photo I've seen of this place is full of people so I'm at least satisfied by the photo I managed to capture with no people in it.
This is a solid park that should not be missed while in Ithaca. Consider however hiking the upper portion of the park and then driving down to the pool if you'd like to see it or swim, as the lower part of the hike is somewhat uneventful.
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